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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.